Bon appétit!

by Pauline Clift

In the past, les parisiens laughed when tourist touters billed Montreal as "the Paris of North America."

But today greater Montreal holds about the same population as Paris did when Papa Hemingway compared living in la ville lumière to A Moveable Feast. This critical mass of around four million supports a healthy restaurant industry, which in turn entices a mix of business and university folk, artists and writers to linger in the city's eateries over good food and conversation.

At the AGM, make sure to enjoy the fine dining and company at ITHQ ("E-Tek"), Canada's primo hotel and restaurant college. But plan to stay and join Montrealers at one of their favourite activities: dining out at comparatively modest prices.

Then, next time you're in Paris, shoo the dogs from the restaurants and sass the rude waiters back. And don't forget to tell the Parisiens they'll never rate being called les montréalais of Europe.

SOME SUGGESTIONS

You might enjoy wandering along Montreal's two main restaurant areas, on Duluth or Prince Arthur. Buy your wine first, though, and just pick out an excellent restaurant, such as La Coulombe at 564 Duluth east, corner of St-Hubert (849-8844). Menus and prices affixed, by law, on the door.

Or perhaps you prefer to know exactly where you're going, how much you'll pay and what to expect.

If so, here's a random list, in the 514 dialling area, of my own favourites. Several are in the delightful Plateau Montréal area, some are BYOB -- bring your own wine. Buy wine in corner stores or, for best selection and value, at SAQ stores, bannered with a stylized wine-glass on burgundy background. Prices checked in December, 2000.

Psssst! Other Montrealers: please feel free to add to this list:

Lowest prices, great value, covered outdoor terrace, Greek neighbourhood restaurant:

Terrace Lafayette, 250 avenue Villeneuve Ouest at corner of Villeneuve and Jeanne-Mance. 288-3915. BYOB. Park Avenue bus stops at Villeneuve. Reservations unnecessary for groups less than six. Pasta, vegetarian and regular lasagna, fried squid and usual Greek fare. Huge portions--sharing recommended. Only teenagers can manage their huge hamburgers. Children welcome. Give my name.

Low prices, great value, dine indoors (noisy) or out, Polish family restaurant:

Restaurant Mazurka, 64 Prince Arthur (pedestrian mall near St-Laurent). 844-3539. Soup, main dish and coffee (Table d'hôte), $5.75. Wine special around $12.95 bottle. Not always on table d'hôte, but excellent: Coq au vin (runs out early); divine chicken Kiev; vegetarian pierogi, cheese blintzes.

Elegant little French restaurant, superb cuisine, impeccable service:

Le Caveau, 2063 Victoria (near McGill's Roddick Gates) at avenue Président-Kennedy. 844-1624. Reservations essential. Dress: No jeans; casual wear for men. Table d'hôte $26.95. Excellent house wine $26. Complete dinner for two with wine, tip, tax, starts around $130, and worth it.

Good current Quebec cuisine, and BYOB:

Au Petit Resto, 4650 Mentana, two streets east of St-Hubert, one north of Mont-Royal. One-way south. 598-7963. Tiny. Early reservations essential. Rich sauces, generous portions, amusing service. Indoors only. Table d'hôte with desert around $25.

Superb Japanese fusion cuisine:

Isakaya, located at 3469 avenue du Parc, between Sherbrooke and Milton. Modest prices compared to other Japanese restaurants in town. Tel: 845-8226. Reservations essential. Closed Mondays. Table d'hôte around $16. Sushi/sashimi around $20. Order the grilled squid. Wine is not inexpensive. Tell them Ms. Foxman and Ms. Clift sent you.